Food

Eater’s Information to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula


On a map, Michigan’s Upper Peninsula perches on high of Wisconsin wanting a bit like a rabbit, its ears jutting into Lake Superior, again legs kicking into Lake Huron. The UP (“you-pee,” not “up”) has lengthy attracted outdoorsy varieties. Every summer time, droves of weekend warriors head up north from Milwaukee, Detroit, and Chicago, crossing from Lower Michigan over the 5-mile lengthy Mackinac (mack-in-awe) Bridge or taking a puddle jumper to a small regional airport on their solution to wooded cabins and distant lake homes.

The Upper Peninsula is not any cuddly bunny. Though the peninsula makes up about 30 p.c of Michigan’s landmass (together with offshore areas like Drummond Island and Isle Royale), solely about 300,000 folks (or 0.03 p.c of the state inhabitants) name the world dwelling year-round. These courageous souls — affectionately referred to as Yoopers — know life right here may be laborious, with snowfalls that may complete over 200 inches within the winter and summers muggy with mosquitos, flies, and ticks. But life in UP will also be fairly scrumptious, full of wild berries and chaga mushrooms, freshly tapped maple syrup, steak- and potato-stuffed pasties, and weekly fish fries with Great Lakes perch, whitefish, and walleye. Whenever restrictions have ebbed throughout the COVID-19 pandemic, the UP’s easy, salt-of-the-earth delicacies has been certainly one of many attracts for guests, together with wide-open areas, quick access from city facilities, and outside actions.

The variety of guests to the Upper Peninsula has steadily risen throughout the pandemic, and extra of these guests are coming from exterior the Midwest. Hotels and campgrounds have begun routinely reserving up nicely prematurely. So nab your backwoods cabin quickly if you’d like a chunk of a pasty in its prime.

What is Yooper delicacies?

Over centuries, residents have constructed a resilient meals tradition that matches the distant — at instances harsh — surroundings, counting on wild sport and hearty workaday provisions. Originally the UP was dwelling to a number of Indigenous peoples, together with the Ojibwe/Chippewa, Menominee, and Potawatomi, who thrived within the northwoods by way of a mixture of looking, fishing, trapping, foraging for wild fruits like thimbleberry, maple syrup manufacturing, and rice cultivation. In the nineteenth century, waves of immigrants got here to work in iron ore mines or logging, first French Canadians, then miners from Cornwall, England, and eventually Italians and Scandinavians (principally from Finland and Sweden). With restricted entry to commerce by way of ships by way of the Great Lakes or overland, imported meals cultures additionally relied on elements that could possibly be secured regionally.

These teams left a legacy of no-nonsense eating, however these traditions have trickled down into loads of enjoyable quintessential dishes. The best-known is the British pasty, a filling meal that miners might simply transport to the mines and reheat; the all-in-one hand pie consists of pastry dough full of meat (usually flank steak or hamburger), potatoes, and rutabaga. Whitefish, plentiful within the Great Lakes, seem throughout menus within the space too. Finally, don’t depart with out making an attempt cudighi (selfmade is finest); the hyperlocal Marquette specialty consists of Italian sausage made with allspice, garlic, and nutmeg, pressed flat right into a patty and served on a recent, laborious roll with onions and peppers.

There aren’t any main city facilities within the peninsula, so most meals purveyors at this time are unfold throughout a variety of small cities and villages, alongside inns and trip leases. Many are small, mom-and-pop eating places which have served communities for years. While you will see that some effective eating choices, most spots lean informal.

A chef cooks over a campfire in a clearing in the woods

Chef Iliana Regan on the Milkweed Inn
The Washington Post/Getty Images

What to know earlier than you go

Pasty Fest: You’ll discover pasties everywhere in the UP, however head to town of Calumet for the last word celebration of the stuffed pastry every summer time. Events embody a parade and pasty-eating contest, and many native companies present up annually to promote their very own renditions.

Friday barbeque: Catholic immigrants began the long-standing custom of Friday fish fries within the UP. Today you’ll be able to nonetheless discover a good barbeque at many church buildings, however you’ll additionally see them at bars and eating places everywhere in the peninsula. Local fish is on provide, usually together with perch, whitefish, or walleye. Expect the fish to come back on both delicate white rolls or rye, with butter, coleslaw, french fries, and lemon wedges.

North and south shores: The north aspect of the peninsula alongside Lake Superior accommodates a number of the UP’s hottest spots, like Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Tahquamenon Falls State Park, and Paradise on Whitefish Bay. The southern shorelines of the UP run throughout Lake Michigan and are usually flatter and calmer.

Garden Peninsula: You’ll discover a handful of wineries in what appears like a totally inhospitable surroundings on this strip of land that juts out into Lake Michigan.

Winter within the UP: Many locations shut up store within the winter months when tourism dips. If you do determine to go to low season, double-check the lodges and eating places you wish to go to might be open.

Wild rice: Native to the Great Lakes area, manoomin (wild rice in Anishinaabemowin, or the Ojibwe language) was a staple meals for the Indigenous inhabitants. Most of the rice has disappeared as loggers dammed up rivers to move logs to sawmills, killing the rice in river and lake beds. With assist from state funding, Anishinaabe harvesters have begun to reseed areas, together with the UP, the place wild rice had beforehand grown. Most of the rice will not be obtainable but commercially as efforts are made to extend manufacturing, however you might even see wild rice on some menus.

Foraging: In Michigan, and particularly within the UP, foraging on public lands will not be solely authorized however extensively accepted. Morel mushrooms and wild berries of all varieties are the most typical finds.

A bowl of bean soup with a roll and butter in front of a roaring fire

Keweenaw Mountain Lodge

Where to eat

Marquette: At 20,000 folks, Marquette is the UP’s largest metropolis, and residential to the most important faculty within the space (Northern Michigan University), which has attracted a various vary of eating places. Head to Vango’s for a cudighi, the beloved spicy Italian sausage sandwich, cease at Thill’s Fish House on Lake Superior for smoked whitefish, or decide up a traditional pasty from Jean Kay’s Pasties the place they’re made with flank steak and potatoes similar to a Yooper grandma would make them. Lagniappe Cajun Creole Eatery may be one of many extra stunning choices, however a bowl of gumbo on a chilly Michigan evening hits the spot. The tiny Rice Paddy has been part of the neighborhood for 30 years serving Thai dishes (for takeout solely). For dinner, the Delft Bistro presents some respite from meat-heavy dishes featured on different menus round city, with cherry beet bruschetta, kale salads, and bulgur meatballs with pickled greens in pita. Or strive Casa Calabria for Italian sodas and lasagna.

Keweenaw Peninsula: The expansive landmass that juts straight into Lake Superior is dotted with small eating places. Jamsen’s Fish Market, which sits proper on the water in Copper Harbor, is a must-stop for doughnuts with wild thimbleberry frosting and wild berry turnovers. Cash-only meals truck Captain Matt’s Fish and Chips serves a number of the finest fish tacos made with fried Lake Superior whitefish, and you may carry your tacos over to get pleasure from with a beer at Brickside Brewery subsequent door. For a sundown dinner there are two effective eating choices close by. One is the Harbor Haus, the place the kitchen infuses native fish, greens, and berries with German and Austrian fashion. The different is Fitzgerald’s, the place you’ll be able to play it two methods: Sit inside with a cocktail, hardwood-smoked brisket or pulled pork, and pickled greens, or seize a smash burger with basil burger sauce and a slice of the day by day pie to get pleasure from on their deck overlooking the lake.

Houghton and Hancock are the most important cities within the Keweenaw, and each have sturdy ties to the Finnish immigrants who settled within the space. Kaleva Cafe in Hancock is the place to be Saturday for his or her Finnish pannukakku pancakes. The Ambassador is a well-liked hang-out for excellent pizza and big fishbowl cocktails, which are available reusable copper fishbowl mugs. Roy’s Pasties & Bakery serves untraditional pasties in flavors like turkey with cranberry or pizza, in addition to vegan renditions — simply don’t let the pasty purists hear you. And a go to to the taproom on the UP’s largest brewer, Keweenaw Brewing Company, will solely set you again $3.

Sault Ste. Marie: Michigan’s oldest metropolis, pronounced “Soo Saint Marie,” is positioned on the gateway between the Upper Peninsula and Ontario, Canada (town continues throughout the border by the identical title). It attracts vacationers to the Soo Locks that join Lake Superior to the St. Marys River, which have been pivotal to opening up transport lanes between the Great Lakes. Get a glimpse and a meal at Goetz’s Lockview Restaurant, opened within the Sixties, which serves diner classics for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, together with the favored fried whitefish. Don’t let rumors that the Antlers is haunted deter you from visiting for hefty burgers, amongst different laid-back American fare. For one thing just a little trendy, go to the Wicked Sister, a bar and restaurant with loads of catchy menu objects, like their “4% Club” salads or gluten-free Smother in Law sandwich.

Escanaba: After a go to to an area vineyard — like Leigh’s Garden Winery for seasonal wines with a particular UP flare or Northern Sun Winery for fruit wine — be part of the road out the door on the Swedish Pantry for Swedish pancakes with lingonberries. Or cool off with delicate serve at Jim’s Dari Kreme, particularly with the blue moon taste, an enigmatic Michigan specialty that hovers someplace between citrus-tinged vanilla and almond. For lunch or dinner, hunt down effective eating at the Stonehouse, the place wonderful decisions embody the Great Lakes platter, that includes fish recent from the native waters, and the duck with wild rice.

A burger overflowing with cheese, jalapeno, and bacon on a plate with thick-cut fries

Nacho Mama Burger (chuck-brisket patty, cheese sauce, jalapeno, bacon, salsa verde) at Wicked Sister
Wicked Sister

Paradise: In a throwback to the UP’s logging days, Tahquamenon Falls Brewery & Pub is original after a logging camp and the top brewmaster is the granddaughter of the unique founder. After a number of rounds, there are few issues higher than fried native whitefish at Brown Fisheries Fish House.

Elsewhere across the peninsula: If you’re crossing Route 41, cease by the Hilltop in L’Anse for large cinnamon rolls that tip the dimensions at over a pound every. Hardwood Steakhouse in Covington grills an awesome steak, and also you simply may see a moose as you get pleasure from your meal. Moofinfries in Naubinway has burgers (moo), fish (fin), and fries that may make everybody in your group completely satisfied. Budding cooks coaching at Les Cheneaux Culinary School in Hessel forage for native elements to arrange particular dinners for New Year’s and in the summertime months. Riverside Pizzeria in Iron River seems wonderful cracker-crust pizza. The Up North Lodge in Gwinn began out promoting scorching canine and scorching chocolate within the ’60s, however has since turn out to be “almost world famous” for his or her signature barbecue.

Where to refill

In summer time months you’ll be able to simply discover small farmers markets and pop-up roadside stands all through the UP. Among the fresh-picked wild berries, look out for the well-known thimbleberry, which appears like a raspberry however guarantees rather more taste. For probably the most distinctive thimbleberry jam, head to the Jampot close to Eagle River, which is run by the monks of the Poorrock Abbey, a Byzantine Catholic monastery set within the solitude of the woods.

Michigan maple syrup, normally made on small, family-owned operations, is one other should. Mackinac Bluffs Maple Farms within the japanese UP has produced all-natural natural syrup since 2011 by way of sustainable practices of their sugarbush. Other native manufacturers to search for embody Danielson’s, Jasper’s, and Willis Family Maple.

Chaga mushrooms are one other regional specialty. Grown on birch timber, the mushrooms have lengthy been used as conventional medication. Fill your pantry (or medication cupboard) at Superior Chaga and UP Chaga Connection.

A man stands with a long line of skewered fish, in front of pieces of fish drying in a kitchen

The eponymous fish at Thill’s
Jeffrey Greenberg/Universal Images Group by way of Getty Images

A customer holds the door for another entering a rounded metal building with slats of siding and a sign depicting a jumping fish that reads ‘Thill’s Fish House fresh fish smoked ice seafoods’

Jeffrey Greenberg/Universal Images Group by way of Getty Images

Where to remain

The Milkweed Inn

The Milkweed Inn is the brainchild of chef Iliana Regan, former chef and proprietor of Michelin-starred Elizabeth in Chicago, and spouse Anna Hamlin. Guests are housed in a mix of rustic glamping tents and cabins, and all meals are offered, with a give attention to native, foraged meals. A weekend keep comes with a steep price ticket, reservation hunters have to observe the inn’s Instagram like hawks for posts about openings, and the place is booked straight by way of 2022 and summer time 2023 — however should you want the most well liked ticket on the town, that is the place. Rates begin at $2,000 for a weekend.

The Vault

The Vault in Houghton is a boutique lodge within the renovated Houghton National Bank. The constructing dates from 1887 however has fully trendy facilities. After cozying up in your room, slip into the basement counting room the place the Speakeasy awaits with their craft cocktail menu. Rooms begin at $220 an evening.

Keweenaw Mountain Lodge

Built as a WPA worksite within the Great Depression, the Keweenaw Mountain Lodge was restored in 2018. The 24 non-public cabins are unfold throughout the property, with one, two, or three bedrooms. The primary lodge serves because the central level of the complicated, and it homes the on-site restaurant, which displays the distant setting with a slow-dining method to rustic fare sourced regionally as a lot as doable. Cabins begin at $190 per evening.

Paddler’s Village

Nature lovers looking for a less complicated possibility ought to e book a yurt at Paddler’s Village in Munising, a contemporary campground with a small restaurant that serves scorching canine and pizza. Better but, cook dinner up one thing particular at your campsite for a real UP outside expertise. Tents begin at $150 whereas yurts that sleep 5 begin at $195.

Amanda Ponzio Mouttaki is a contract author and blogger who grew up within the UP however now calls Marrakech, Morocco, dwelling. She loves touring all over the world to search out scrumptious native meals and can by no means flip down a meal made by a grandma.





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