Good morning. Bacon-wrapped scallops are, a visit to Boston jogged my memory lately, much better in principle than in apply. You see them lined up on platters at Faneuil Hall, handed round at glittery events in Cambridge, on menus at luxe eating places and raucous sports activities bars alike. The flavors marry exquisitely, however it’s nearly unimaginable for anybody to complete cooking each elements on the identical time, so the result’s too typically crisp-gummy, unpalatable, grim. Order them at your peril.
But do eat bacon and scallops! They’re swamp-Yankee surf and turf, a style of New England wherever you keep. I really like scallops scalded in bacon fats, as with Eric Kim’s marvelous recipe for seared scallops with glazed brussels sprouts (above), and I really like them served uncooked atop crisp bacon, as in Mark Bittman’s recipe, to not point out after they’re blended into the seafood chowder that Julia Moskin realized to make within the kitchen at Eventide Oyster Co. in Portland, Maine.
Don’t eat bacon? Try buttery scallops with lemon and herbs. Don’t eat shellfish? Glazed bacon for you. Don’t eat both? You may unfold this miso-peanut butter concoction onto absolutely anything and expertise a unique form of umami pleasure.
To unfold the circle wider, I do know I wish to make Anna Francese Gass’s new recipe for penne al baffo, a form of penne alla vodka with ham that’s deeply savory and filling. And I’d like to have fun the season with Hana Asbrink’s recipe for crème fraîche pasta with peas and scallions, or Melissa Clark’s recipe for creamy bucatini with spring onions and mint.
This might be an incredible day to make the hamburger they serve at Zuni Café in San Francisco, or higher but to begin to make the hamburger — the method is well worth the two days spent. After salting the meat and placing it to treatment within the fridge, make a fast linguine with lemon sauce for dinner. Or do neither and make a skillet hen with black beans, rice and chiles as an alternative.
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Now, it has nothing in any respect to do with scallops or bacon, however Don Winslow’s newest, “City on Fire,” is each a crackerjack gangster story and a love letter to Rhode Island. Which is to say: Worth studying.
Closer to the kitchen, you’ll take pleasure in our Brett Anderson’s accounting of a visit to Tennessee, the place he foraged for ramps with Allan Benton, the king of nation hams.
The second season of “Russian Doll” has arrived! Enter the time machine, please.
Finally, the folks in my home play Harry Styles’s “As It Was” roughly thrice a day. There are worse outcomes for households. Join us! I’ll be again on Friday.